Oakland Local

Restaurant and wine bar review by Granate Sosnoff  

If a new wine-focused restaurant with proprietor-sommeliers who “specialize in obscurity” sounds like a great night out, then get yourself to The Barrel Room in Rockridge.

Sarah Trubnick and Carolyn Johnson are in launch mode for The Barrel Room, an expanded version of their San Francisco wine bar of the same name. They’re furthering a win-win trend of successful businesses like A-16 (also in Rockridge) that are crossing the Bay for better rents and eager, sophisticated diners in Oakland.

The Barrel Room in Oakland (Granate Sosnoff photo)

The Barrel Room in Oakland (photo: Granate Sosnoff)

As media guests, we visited this new restaurant with “a twist,” which builds a menu around the wines rather than vice-versa. They feature a rotating wine list with an emphasis on small-production, “terroir-expressive” (buzzword alert) wines from around the world.

Accompanied by a food menu slated to change every 8 weeks, the idea is to keep it fresh and inventive, sharing new food, wines and wine education without a lot of pomp.

The Barrel Room in Oakland will feature the gifts of Chef Sam Paulding, (formerly of Paulding and Co., and Oliveto) an East Bay native, excited to live and work in Oakland as a part of this creative venture.

Sarah Trubnick and Sam Paulding

Sarah Trubnick and Sam Paulding

Open since mid-December, they’re starting with a French-influenced menu including classic charcuterie options paired with the certified sommeliers’ wine flights.

In the coming year, diners and drinkers can look forward to German, Italian and other international and regional menus, sure to be inspired and surprising.

Because we’re lazy and trust, we let owner Sarah Trubnick choose our food and wine pairings. We weren’t disappointed.

From their small plates, we started with dates perfectly complemented and stuffed with blue cheese, walnuts and pancetta ($7) and we adored the tea-smoked (Liberty) duck breast with arugula and persimmons ($10), both paired with a peppery Mondeuse from the Savoie region of France and a lighter French Crozes Hermitage Syrah.

Smoked Duck at The Barrel Room

Smoked Duck at The Barrel Room (photo: Granate Sosnoff)

My friend Anna’s favorite of the night was this brandade of true cod, cream and potato with toast ($8), balanced and delicious, and in her words “phenomenal.” It was paired with a fresh white wine from Italy, Kerner Alto Adige, and a much richer Savagnin from Jura, France. (We favored the Italian wine).

Brandade of true cod (photo Granate Sosnoff)

Brandade of true cod (photo: Granate Sosnoff)

And though perhaps not picturesque, but a fabulous favorite, the Basque chicken, “poulet basquase” ($10) paired well with a surprising “Vitatge Vielh” white French wine and a classic Madiran Tannat.

We also shared the pork tenderloin, arguably the prettier main dish served with prunes “porc aux pruneaus” ($10) and perfectly cooked in the sousvie method (sealed and boiled). It was paired with a Chenin Blanc from France and Blue Rock Cabernet from the Alexander Valley (my fave).

Porc aux pruneaux (photo Granate Sosnoff)

Porc aux pruneaux (photo: Granate Sosnoff)

For dessert we had crème brulée ($7 and above-average delish), and an outstanding cranberry walnut brown butter torte with brown butter ice cream. The ice cream was homemade by Chef Paulding’s mom, simply divine, and paired with a lovely Sauterne.

Cranberry walnut brown butter torte (photo Granate Sosnoff)

Cranberry walnut brown butter torte (photo: Granate Sosnoff)

Co-owners Sarah Trubnick and Carolyn Johnson have worked side by side for years and share a fondness for quirky and little-known wines. We enjoyed Sarah’s mini-overviews of the wines, as it made the night more enjoyable and left us with the feeling that we learned a bit. Although The Barrel Room’s wine list seems heavily European, with some California wines, Sarah assured us that they are always looking around and not afraid to serve a wine from Texas if they find one they like.

The Barrel Room is a great addition to the growing list of excellent places to eat in Rockridge (and Oakland in general). Compared to like places, their dishes are ample and more affordable than many, with large plates offered from $7 for quiche to $16 for a huge portion of cassoulet.

Some other details: 30-seat dining, 50 wines by the glass, 200 by the bottle, some wines available for retail sale, craft beer served as well.

Go and enjoy!

The Barrel Room

5330 College Avenue

Oakland (between Manila & Bryant)

Open Tues-Sun (11am-12 pm, kitchen closes at 10:30pm but you can sip and eat charcuterie till midnight).

Granate Sosnoff is a nonprofit communications consultant and Mugsy pop up wine bar producer frequently in need of a good glass of wine.

 

The short URL for this post is http://oak.lc/ph61m.

6 thoughts on “The Barrel Room rolls out in Oakland

  1. Yum! I’m ignoring the pictures, and going with Granate’s delicious words. Will be sure to visit this place – it sounds amazing!

  2. The Barrel Room sounds like a welcome addition to the Rockridge. I have had the pleasure of eating Sam’s cooking in other venues, and can verify that he is indeed “one very talented chef!” Best wishes to all the principals of Barrell Room. I hope to see you there within the next few days!

  3. This sounds too good to be true ;) my friends also live on Manila. I should let them take me. I want that brown butter torte right meow.

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  5. I was the lucky one to have enjoyed this fabulous culinary experience with Granate! Thank you Granate for a perfect description!!

  6. Pingback: The Barrel Room rolls out in Oakland | Crush Chicks

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