Foodie Fix pushes the ice cream envelope.
The big question about ForageSF's first East Bay Underground Market was would people come to an Oakland pop-up market that was only open for a few hours and featured home cooks and unlicensed vendors in addition to the pros?
Based on the
lines down the block - a hallmark of past San Francisco markets - the answer is yes.
Iso Rabins, founder of ForageSF, explained that originally, the
event was to take place at a glass factory on 24th Street. Due to a snafu, the
group ended up renting a parking lot near Broadway and 24th. With food
vendors lining the edges and center of the lot, the event had a perfect
flea market atmosphere with plenty of room to move around, beautiful
sun and a nice breeze. San Francisco event regulars welcomed the
contrast to jam packed, sweaty indoor spaces.
What attracts these new food makers to pay the $50 fee and set up shop for a few hours? Generally, a chance to share their special recipes, make some cash and test the popularity of their concepts with the community.
As a market attendee - and food business insider - I had a chance to learn a bit more about the people behind the food, their motivations and challenges during the time I spent there. For so many of the food companies at the market, just like the many food companies I've met in my food sourcing/marketing work, finding retail and kitchen space continues to be a problem - an opportunity that underground and pop-up markets help address.
In short, the underground market is a testament to supporting future small businesses. Some veteran participants have matured into retail distribution, like INNA Jam. Others like Allison, a chef with Crave Bakery, had yet to name her company, focusing more on baking her gluten-free cupcakes than marketing. And the Homeroom 510 team introduced the crowd to their mac and cheese in advance of their November restaurant opening at 400 40th Street.
Some of the hits that stood out for me at Saturday's market:
Importing international food traditions: Raclette cheese & damn shiok kaya
Melted cheese still bubbling from her heater, Sarah Dvorak scraped off layers of gooey Raclette cheese in traditional
Swiss style atop roasted potatoes with pickles - transfixing the crowd. Dvorak first
experienced raclette at Neal's Yard in Borough Market in the UK and
decided to test it out at home. Way to put your desires out there: Her
cards promote her Mission Cheese shop ... for which she has
yet to find a location. Know of one?
Marcia and Hilary created their artfully packaged damn shiok kaya after a fruitless state-side search for this coconut custard spread they'd enjoyed in Singapore.
Dietary needs: Chocolate, vegan and veggie
Lisa Cooper's chocolate cupcakes - with spinach and blueberries as secret ingredients - emerged from an anti-junk food rule at her son's Marin county elementary school.
Similarly, Lori Lovejoy, a true Oakland local, is also just starting to test her "super-healthy energy Laar's Bars that taste like cookies" with the market. Previously a docent at Scharffen Berger, Lovejoy packs in the dark chocolate which we all know has excellent medicinal qualities.
A corner of the market grouped raw, vegan desserts together. Earth Alchemy's "raw, vegan, organic, gluten free, dairy free" confections sat alongside equally good-for-you "living food" cupcakes from Sweet Life Cakes.
New businesses, old family recipes
Clarine of Clarine's Florentines went from elementary school teacher to making her almond chocolate cookies, based on an old family recipe. She not only uses a commercial kitchen but decided to run one, on Gilman Street in Berkeley. There's currently space available in evenings.
Nanny's Stout Mustard takes a simple, artisan approach to grandma's old recipe: home made stout beer (made by her brother), mustard seeds and little else. A children's book editor, Genny is playing the business by ear. But based on success and this and past markets, you may one day say you found her here first.
Career Changers
Jessica Hubler at Sweet Francisco
makes the world a better place, helping refugees in her work and
serving up amazing tarts, made with seasonal produce, to sweet
Oaklanders. Perhaps the most photographed table at the event, Sweet
Francisco sprang fromHubler's pastry school training. Due to exposure
from a previous underground market, a cafe has asked Hubler to now
bake for them full time.
The brothers of City Smoke House, long time backyard smokers (meat, that is), started dishing up their pulled pork and other barbecue for catering events after getting laid off. They'll start selling at the Fort Mason Friday market, but have yet to find a commercial kitchen to prep their food.
Reaching new markets
Former potter Jeannie Munson came from Santa Cruz to spread the news about Jeannie's Jams to new customers. Mostly made with local fruits, including fruit donated by her customers, she explained that jam has become her new art.
Julie from Immaculate Confection Cakes trekked from Los Angeles to introduce her liquor infused cakes, in antique cake mold-inspired shapes. Several months ago she quit her day job, started baking at Pasadena's popular Mama's Kitchen and has since sold her cakes at several events in L.A. (I was interested to see this market doesn't require vendors to be local.)
Good food for good
More satisfying than my culinary pleasure was Dierdre Davis' news that The Bread Project of Berkeley will be baking bread for Project OpenHand. The nonprofit Bread Project promotes "self-sufficiency by providing low-income Bay Area residents with the skills needed to obtain and keep jobs in the food industry." A great example of mutual nonprofit support.
Security guards milled around, but from what I could see, at least in the early hours, the crowd was fully absorbed in the food and vendor stories. Event creator Rabins seemed very pleased with the location and scene - hopefully a harbinger of future Oakland markets to come.
For more info on the Underground Markets, visit ForageSF.
Raw Daddy cones = best thing that ever happened to me!