Pigeon might soon be on Oakland's dinner plate

Homegrown haute cuisine could help solve city budget crisis and more.

Homegrown haute cuisine could help solve city budget crisis and more.

(UPDATE Apr. 2: Yes, this story was indeed a joke. Happy April Fool's Day, Oakland!)

An exotic restaurant that had been rejected in San Francisco for its plans to serve pigeon meat will likely end up in Oakland, a city council vote suggested Tuesday. This move might help simultaneously address the city's budget crisis, increase local employment and support locally produced food.

Oakland city council members unanimously agreed to debate the issue in May after restaurant entrepreneur and chef Jay Rollings offered to pay the city $10 for every pigeon served for the first five years. If approved, the new "Vermine à Ailes" haute cuisine restaurant would open in the former Barnes & Noble location on Jack London Square in late 2010.

Rollings, an American who has run similar restaurants throughout Europe, even said that at least half of the birds would originate in Oakland streets, and that he would pay the city $10 for each.

"That should tell you how serious we are about this venture," the chef said.

More than 10 million pigeons call Oakland home, according to current municipal statistics.

Moe Randall, deputy assistant vice City Clerk, said the recession forced Oakland to look at every possible opportunity to generate revenue. He noted that the city spends more than $1 million annually to retrofit, restore and clean buildings damaged by pigeon dung.

"We have been looking for ways to control pigeon populations and so far this is the closest we have come to a plan that makes sense," said Randall. "We understand that some people can't imagine that cute little bird that eats their left over bread on a grill, but cute doesn't pay the bills."

In addition to saving the city money, the restaurant could earn Oakland as much as $5 million a year in tax revenue, and employ up to 300 people. If approved, the restaurant could be the first in North America to sauté the bird.

Pigeon meat is a delicacy around the world, but the idea of serving it in U.S. restaurants is new.

Local animal rights activists vowed to oppose vehemently the idea of a pigeon restaurant.

"I know the city is desperate for money, but this is ridiculous," lamented Betty Trehuger of the Oakland Animal Rights League. "The people of Oakland should rise up and protect their reputation from the damage this savagery will cause."

Chef Rollings countered that, in fact, most of the Bay Area residents supporting the idea were Americans who have had to go abroad for pigeon meat. Pigeon meat can fetch as much as $100 a plate in affluent European restaurants, where Rollings has worked for the last 15 years.

Randall promised that Oakland would not pass on the opportunity. He said the city government had already formed a Special Committee on Oakland Bush Meat to examine the issue. Randall said those who opposed the plan were a nuisance and did not understand how city government works.

"All it takes is a vote and the restaurant is open," Randall said. "And aren’t these the same people going around talking about how people should eat local food?"

Edwin Okong’o is a writer, journalist, humorist and satirist. He is a reporter for FRONTLINE/World and formerly an associate editor at New America Media. "Kenya: Sweet Home, Obama," a documentary he made on the 2008 U.S. presidential elections for PBS, was voted the People's Voice at the 2009 Webby Awards. Okong'o is a regular contributor to New America Now, an ethnic media radio program aired on various NPR stations. During the 2007 post-election violence in his home country, Kenya, Okong’o was a resource for news media including The New York Times, Al-Jazeera and the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation. He is working on his first book, a memoir about coming of age in Kenya. Follow him on his blog, http://www.ourmaninamerica.com.
J M's picture

Great Idea!

Much better and greener than importing meat from other countries. 

I doubt we will be making much of an impact on the population of Oakland unless they are exported as well. 

Oakland can certainly use the money and there are hundreds around my local area. 

If the animal rights persons want to protect a maligned bird that needs our help, help these poor chickens out that we eat everyday. The conditions for them are horrible. They are kept in tiny cages, feed antibiotics, have their beaks cut off and never see the sun. 

I would much rather eat an animal or bird that has been able to live wild and enjoy life than one that has been tortured for our dinner plate. Don't even get me started on the subject of veal.

For this privilege I get to spend $3.79 a pound for chicken that gets to run around outside, eat bugs and organic grain and enjoy the sunshine instead of .69 cents a pound for tortured chicken. 

My neighbor feeds the pigeons, they are very messy birds (less than gulls though).

I have to wash my car during the dry season. 

Got any recipes?

Amy Gahran's picture

Hi, JM. The pigeon export business is a wonderful idea. I'm putting together today's Oakland Local Daily Brief, so I'll be sure to mention that one.

We linked to a recipe in this story, so check the links. Here are more.

- Amy Gahran

Amanda Smulevitz's picture

Ha ha good one!

Betsy Johnson's picture

I'd pay him $10/bird to come take the pigeons off my windowsill!  Are there guidlines for catching and buchering city birds? 

Amy Gahran's picture

Thanks, Betsy. While the new City of Oakland Bush Meat Subcommittee has not yet drawn up guidelines for catching and butchering local pigeons, there are several online resources that cover this topic.

If you'd like to get involved with this issue locally, I believe the subcommittee is planning a public meeting on April 31. Oakland Local will post details when we have them.

Kelly Lau's picture

I think it's a great way to solve an epidemic but wouldn't it be a little gross to consume such foul beasts?  It wouldn't be any different from catching sewer rats and roasting them.  But hey, if Oakland is that desperate, go for it.  You can already get pigeon in Chinatown for cheap so I doubt anyone would pay a lot for a dish or flying rat meat.

Kathy's picture

April Fools

Amy Gahran's picture

Yes, this was part of our April Fools Day fun :-)

remy na's picture

Great idea let me bring out my barbeque charcoal grills .... just kidding.

Shane vincent's picture

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Len Raphael's picture

hope someone tests each bird for lead and pesticide levels. not too likely.

75% of oakland pigeons are not organic.