Kiwi jam.  Never heard of it?  It’s not surprising.  Most people haven’t.  I came upon my first jar at a farmer’s market about 15 years ago and have never forgotten it.  That was “way back when”…long before I ever considered making my own jam.  These days, it remains one of my favorites.  Oh, there’s peach, there’s plum and the ever-popular strawberry.  They’re delicious, sure, but there’s just something about kiwi jam that has captured my heart.  The fruit is both tart and sweet, berry-like and almost floral, and grows beautifully in our California climate.  It has an almost tropical flavor that breaks the monotony of winter.  I particularly love this kiwi jam with a little mascarpone on a scone or biscuit as a mid-afternoon snack.

Caffe 817’s kiwi jam
yields 12 4-ounce jars

Jam is best cooked in a wide, shallow pan so that the correct amount of evaporation occurs. I like to use dried rose petals in my kiwi jam- not enough to make it “perfumy”, but just enough to soften the tartness of the fruit.  Most of my jams are chunky, as I like the textural difference.  If you prefer a smooth jam, pass the cooked fruit through a food-mill once it has cooked enough to become softened.

Prior to cooking the fruit, prepare the equipment.  You’ll need sterilized jars, tongs, and ladle.  The jam can either be frozen in canning jars or canned using proper sterilization techniques.

•    5 pounds whole, ripe kiwi fruits
•    1/2 Tablespoon dried rose petals
•    1-1/2 cups white sugar (or to taste)

Rinse the kiwis under cold running water to remove as much of the loose “fur” as possible before you begin working.  Cut all the kiwis in half across the horizon and scoop the flesh in to a clean bowl using a spoon.  Discard the furry skin. 

Pour the sugar and dried rose petals over the scooped kiwi flesh and stir gently to ensure that all the fruit is coated.  Cover and refrigerate. Allow to macerate for at least two hours, or overnight.

Before beginning to cook, place a small plate and a few teaspoons in the freezer to test the consistency of the jam as it cooks.

Pour the fruit/sugar mixture into the pan, placed over high heat.  Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring somewhat regularly to ensure even cooking.  During the first stage of cooking, the fruit will loose its spring-green vibrancy and take on a chartreuse-like color.  (If you plan to pass the fruit through a food-mill to produce a smooth jam, do it at this point.  Then pour the puree back into the jam pot to continue cooking.)

Continue cooking the jam over high heat, stirring constantly as it reduces in volume and becomes thicker.  The color of the jam will slowly evolve as it reduces into a muddy-emerald color, dotted with freckles.  As this happens, reduce the heat to medium-high.  Be especially careful at this point, as the jam may begin to splatter.  (I sometimes twist a kitchen towel around my “stirring” arm to protect it from possible burns.) Stir the jam constantly, being attentive to the spots that want to stick.  Taste the jam periodically to judge its sweetness and adjust as necessary.  (It should have some acidity, and enough sweetness to balance it.  Once cool, the jam will taste less sweet than when it was hot.  You may want to add a little more sugar than you think is necessary at this point.) 

When the jam is somewhat looser than you think the final product should be, pour a spoonful onto the small frozen plate.  This action quickly cools the jam and gives a much more accurate representation of it’s viscosity once properly cooled.  If it seems too thin, simply continue cooking.  Continue to do tests with the frozen plate until you’ve reached the desired consistency. 

Once the jam has reached the desired consistency, remove the pot from the heat and carefully ladle the molten-hot jam into the sterilized jars.  Screw on their lids.  If you plan to preserve the jam by canning, proceed immediately, while the jam is still hot.  If you plan to freeze the jam, allow the jars to cool completely before placing in the freezer.

Enjoy!

Have other jam recipes or faves? Share in the comments or email diy@oaklandlocal.com